Italy: Middle (Rome)

After Florence, our 5 charter buses headed to Rome. I captured this excellent use of solar panels at an Autogrill (road side plaza) on our way. Wish we had more of this clean energy in the US.

It was already a long day of travel when we arrived in Rome, but there's no rest for the weary as we had a full itinerary. I'm not going to sugarcoat, this was a rough day. I was simultaneously very grateful and amazed by all the things I was seeing and learning, but also very hot, sweaty, tired. We arrived at St. Peter's Basilica, and after some extended wait time (tardy tour guides, organizing groupings and tickets, etc), we set off. 

There is so much Christian lore and history here. I found it fascinating. And the basilica is stunning. The story goes that Peter was crucified under Nero in this general location and buried unceremoniously in a pagan graveyard. In the 4th century, Constantine decided to build the basilica in the location where Peter was said to be buried on Vatican Hill, though definitive scientific proof is difficult. I also found it interesting that catholics consider Peter the first pope, while protestants do not. 

St. Peter's Square - The obelisk is Egyptian and was (stolen) brought to Rome in 37AD. It's been in its current location since 1586, and is believed to be placed approximately where Peter was crucified in ~64AD. 

the pope's apartment

Ryan and I ended up in the same tour group for St. Peter's. 

13th century bronze statue of St. Peter

This part was designed by Michelangelo!

After touring St. Peter's, we trekked over to the Vatican Museum where the main attraction is the Sistine Chapel. There were a lot of very interesting things to see and learn, but it was very hot and crowded, and we were being rushed. Regrettably, this did not leave space in my brain to appreciate what I was seeing. Especially, at the end when I was stopped by a member of our group who informed me that Ryan was separated from his group and was missing. (Ryan and I were in different tour groups  after St. Peter's.) Then there was a big to-do when my group came out of the Vatican Museum, trying to account for everyone and reconnect with the larger group. Idk. It was a lot to manage, but in the end, we all managed to board the 5 buses, everyone accounted for.

Here are some cool moments I was able to appreciate in the Vatican Museum. 

This is the muse of music. I love etymology. A muse is a goddess or source of inspiration, and our word museum traces back to the Greek mouseion, meaning seat of the muses.

The Gallery of Maps, Renaissance-era maps of Italy and papal provinces, was very interesting. Would have liked to spend a little more time here.

No pictures allowed in the Sistine Chapel! Before I realized that, I took a couple, and got yelled at buy security, along with many other tourists who were taking pictures. 

In this illicit picture, you see Jeremiah. It's said that Michelangelo gave Jeremiah his face and body positioning to represent how Michelangelo felt about this project. He did NOT enjoy painting this, apparently. Yet here we all are... 

2026 Family Picture of the Year!

Commissioned ~70AD and originally called the Flavian Amphitheater, it was the site of to-the-death entertainment featuring animals, prisoners, gladiators, etc. After a couple centuries of use, it fell into disrepair during the decline of Rome. Eventually it was stripped of marble and other materials to build other structures. It's a miracle the Colosseum still stands. It's clearly a prototype for modern arenas.

Our giant group tries to organize itself to tour both the Colosseum...

...and the Roman Forum.

I was in Evan's tour  group this time, and went into the Forum first. The forum was the bustling city-center of the Roman Empire.

Arch of Titus (~80AD)

Our tour group stops by the Temple of Julius Caesar (low roof in foreground). After his murder, he was deified and honored with a temple. Building began in 42BCE on the site of Caesar's funeral pyre where Mark Antony read Caesar's testament. 

Temple of Antoninus and Faustina (140AD)

Curia Julia, meaning Julius Caesar's meeting house, is where the senate met. Commissioned by Caesar, but finished after his death and dedicated in 29BCE, this building is preserved because it was repurposed as a basilica in 630AD and therefore protected.

True to the theme of our time in Rome, we were hurried through The Roman Forum so we could be at the Colosseum for our timed-ticket. We fared better than others. Ryan's group waited forever in a line to enter the Forum, left the line to make their Colosseum timed-ticket, and then had to head back to the Forum, and didn't have much time in either place. Our bus guide, Andrea, was livid with these two venues. It was a bummer to feel rushed, but it was still stunning. We'll just have to go back...

inside the Colosseum

I caught Ryan's group finishing up their Colosseum tour.

Burke and I reconnected after our separate tours concluded, and went off to enjoy some free time in Rome while the boys did the same.

We made our way to Vittoriano, a modern building built to honor Italy's first king. It was appropriated by Mussolini's regime and its vast staircases and balcony served as backdrop for Mussolini speeches and propaganda. 

We took a glass elevator ride up to the rooftop to enjoy arial views of Rome. Pictured here is Via dei Fori Imperiali, which leads the Colosseum (center, back) with Roman Forum on each side of the street.

Finally it was time to travel to the final performance at Palazzo Farnese Caprarola (about 30 miles northwest of Rome). This small town was enchanting.

Palazzo Farnese Caprarola

This gorgeous venue was the perfect place to conclude this memorable tour experience. It was also very special that, unbeknownst to us, this performance was planned as a fundraiser for ALS.

choir

Evan: member or the tour choir and orchestras

chamber orchestra

symphony orchestra

another cool shot of the orchestra, basses in the foreground

Now the very sentimental part...

At the end of the concert, which went quite late, the audience kept wanting more and more encores, 

Burke took a moment to celebrate the seniors who just played their last concert as SJHS students. When the orchestra played Cinema Paradiso for the final time, I was absolutely sobbing at this lovely, sweeping cello section of the piece. It is sometimes so shocking that Ryan is so grown. How?!

Once the audience accepted that the ensemble was done, there were no more encores and were out of music, Tyler and Ryan started jamming as they do. Ryan smiles big and real when he's playing music, especially with small groups of friends. I hope he never loses that joy, and can tap into that in other aspects of life too. 

Our fearless tour group leaders bidding us farewell.

Dragon Bus selfie with Andrea

Andrea and Burke

Burke thinks Andrea may be the best tour guide he's had. He was outstanding both professionally and personally.

On a trip full of headlines, one of the major headlines is that Burke and Ryan wrapped up their high school orchestra partnership at Palazzo Farnese Caprarola. I really have no words. We're all just immensely grateful for the opportunity and for Ryan's awesomeness.

But that's not all...

Stay tuned for the final part of our Italy adventure.

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Italy: Beginning (Venice & Florence)

Over a year in the planning, and a source of stress for many, the long awaited SJHS Performing Arts Italy Tour kicked off mid-June 2026. We traveled with about 250 people, which was no small feat. 

The choir, band, and orchestra members performed a Bon Voyage concert before the we left. This is a pic of the choir. Evan sang with this group on tour, which was super fun for him. The choir sounded amazing, and the choir teacher picked great music. 

Considering gas prices and fuel surcharges, we had to take school buses the two hours from SJ to O'Hare to save some money. It was not a super comfy two hours, but it got us there. The SJPS transportation department was amazing for Burke to work and plan with.  

Evan and Kolby got stopped by the drug dog. Kolby's violin is what caught the dog's attention. I guess this happened to other students as well. A TSA agent called it a "tiny guitar" or something like that. I guess "violin" is not part of his schema.

off we go to Venice, connecting in Amsterdam

There were FIVE different flights of SJ students and adults, connecting in various cities. The Frankfort connection did not go smoothly, especially for two people. And there was some tension between a mom and daughter. However, overall, I'd say this giant arrived in Venice fairly smoothly. That first day, we essentially lost a night so we were all exhausted from travel and the time difference. The tour guides had us kill time in Padua while we waited for flights to arrive and our hotels to be ready. Padua is about 40 minutes from Venice. I guess we had to stay far from our destination cities to stay within budget and have enough rooms for a group of our size. We were eager to go to Venice the next day.

Venice Day! 

View from the boat arriving in Venice.

Doge's Palace is the pink-ish building center right. 

We toured that palace.

Vivaldi's Church, where our ensembles performed

outside Doge's Palace in Piazza San Marco

Since this city is actually floating on a marshy lagoon, it makes sense that this piazza apparently floods regularly (lowest point in city). Also, because of the main buildings in this area, it was interesting that this piazza is said to represent power (Doge's Palace), learning (library, at left), religion (St. Mark's Basilica), and commerce (more below).

Our guide highlighted this painting of Juno Showering Gifts on Venice (c.1553) by Paolo Varonese. Founded by refugees fleeing barbarian invasion, due to its location, Venice became a hot spot for commerce, and as such became known for its wealth and opulence. 

Our tour guide stops outside the beautiful Basilica di San Marco. Built in the year 828, housing relics and the remains of Mark, hearing the history of this church is when I internalized the ancientness of Italy. Intellectually, I realized it's got significant history, but it was abstract, I guess. I grew up with every church being named St. Peter, St. Luke, etc so sort of desensitized, but we're talking the actual Mark of "Matthew, Mark, Luke, John" fame. Whoa! This set my mindset for the general historic shock of the rest of the trip. Always learning...

We didn't have much free time in Venice, unfortunately, but Burke and I were able to steal away for a bit, and happened upon some picturesque canals.

While ensembles rehearsed, some friends strolled the narrow streets, and I found a spot to enjoy a cocktail before the concert.

Chamber orchestra performs in Vivaldi's Church, officially Santa Maria della Pietà. 

heading back to land at the end of our day in Venice

Venice is in the northeast. From there we headed southwest to the region of Tuscany, specifically Florence. Our bus guide, Andrea, shared a lot with us about Italian history and culture. He told us that Florence is known for, among many other things, leather and steak. Understandably, our first stop during our first free time opportunity was a recommended steak house. Seriously, best steak we've ever had! 

Construction began on the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence in 1296, and it took over 100 years to complete. It's known for its architectural magnitude, especially the dome (not pictured). During free time, a few students walked the 450+ steps to take in the view from the dome. 

Ponte Vecchio is a charming bridge. The bridge was originally occupied by butchers and tanners, convenient location for tossing waste into the river. Eventually, in order improve appearances, the Medici family banned them and only allowed goldsmiths and jewelers do their business here. Would have liked to spend more time in this area, but we ran out of time. 

Piazza della Signoria - outdoor open museum of sorts which includes notable sculptures, such as...

Perseus with the Head of Medusa (c. 1550) by Benvenuto Cellini

a bronze sculpture, which was not a common medium of the time, and quite a feat

another view in Piazza della Signoria

We had the most free time in Florence, which was lovely. At one point, Burke and I, along with Ryan and his friend Ruben, went to see the Rothko exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi. The succinct exhibit outlined the evolution of work chronologically. 

Very interesting to learn about Rothko's intention and craft. Ryan and I agreed this one was our favorite. Don't ask me why - I don't really get it. Ryan may be able to articulate it better. [If you're wondering, Evan was exploring Florence with his friends at this point.]

More free time in Florence! Ruben joined us again, and this time Evan came with too, when we went to Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze.

David (c.1504) by Michelangelo

I really have no words... We agreed, this was one of the top 5 things we did/saw in Italy. The tour guide was fantastic which thoroughly enhanced the entire experience. It was simply profound to be in this space to learn the history of Michelangelo and his work. At the end of the day on our long, hot trek back to our bus, I rattled off much of what I learned to a fellow chaperone who went to Accademia but did not get a tour. Grateful he was willing to listen...

Accademia also had a musical instruments exhibit, which included one of the first upright pianos...

...as well as string instruments crafted by Antonio Stradivari. Whoa!

Before leaving, Ryan and I doubled back to check out some Botticelli paintings (c.1470)

Our dinner that evening was outdoors. It was so, so hot!! Evan and friends found a shady spot to play hacky sack while we ate and relaxed before the performance.

This may be our only picture of all the student performers.

Huge group!

Full symphony performance outside Florence. 

This town was sweet, and they just loved when the symphony played Cinema Paradiso. They made a big to-do to welcome and express gratitude to Burke and his colleagues. 

To be continued...

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